A fabric that has survived historical obstacles

Bukhara is mentioned as one of the cities where craftsmanship and trade flourished. Especially, the fabrics produced by Bukhara artisans were already famous during the Mongol era. In one of the records left by Rashid al-Din, it is noted that three merchants set out from Bukhara towards China at a time when Genghis Khan was busy invading Northern China, and the merchants met with Genghis Khan, carrying products such as zarboft, zandanicha, and karpas.

When Genghis Khan saw the products of Bukhara merchants, although their value was around 10-20 dinars, he gave one bolish of gold for a piece of zarboft. He ordered that one bolish of silver be paid for a piece of zandanicha and karpas fabric. Unfortunately, many types of craftsmanship in Bukhara were lost due to the Mongol invasion and subsequent struggles. This was the time when the zandanicha fabric first encountered the historical regime's obstacles. Nevertheless, it passed through this pass safely.

For information: Zandanicha is one of the famous fabrics woven in Bukhara, and its name comes from the word "zandani." The word "zandani" actually refers to prisoners or captives. According to legend, this fabric may have originally been woven by prisoners in a prison. However, in other sources, the term "zandanicha" is associated with Bukhara's silk industry.

This fabric is distinguished by its unique traditional patterns and weaving techniques. The fabric is hand-woven, primarily using silk or a blend of silk and cotton. It features bright colors and often has floral or geometric patterns, and it was used in ancient times for the garments of amirs, palace members, and wealthy merchants.

During the Soviet era, zandanicha fabric underwent another phase of obstacles. During this time, the silk and textile industry became industrialized, and the production of traditional fabrics like zandanicha decreased somewhat. However, it is encouraging that the production of zandanicha fabric has continued to be preserved. Today, zandanicha is widely used in national clothing, home decorations, and national souvenirs.

This fabric was first created by artisans in the village of Zandani, located in the Peshku district of Bukhara region. This village, situated 12 kilometers away from the district center, stands out from other ancient villages in the region due to its long history, nature, and ancient customs. Currently, around 800 residents live in the Zandani village, which is part of the "Zandani" neighborhood citizens' assembly area, with its fields adjacent to the Kyzylkum desert.

In ancient times, this village consisted of hills, which were used as a fortress. To this day, some of these hills have been preserved, and thus the history of Zandani village is linked to deep and ancient roots.

Historically, the term "Zandani" was first mentioned in the work "History of Bukhara" written by Abu Bakr Muhammad ibn Jafar Narshakhi in 943-944 AD (Hijri 332). This village had a large fortress, a congregational mosque, and markets. The fabric woven in Zandani was called "boz zandanicha," meaning "the fabric that comes from Zandana village." Similar fabrics produced in many villages of Bukhara, such as Vardonze, Iskajkat, Romitan, and Afshon, were also named similarly and were exported to India, the Near and Middle East, and European countries during the Middle Ages.

According to Shohruh Amonov, the coordinator for the development of entrepreneurship in Bukhara region, Zandani village, which was the cradle of textile civilization, has become one of Bukhara's new tourist destinations. He states that the fame of zandanicha fabric was also high in the late Middle Ages. Rulers and dignitaries had garments made from this fabric and considered it an honor to wear it.

- Even Amir Timur, before seizing power in Turan, left his sister and other relatives in the Zandani and Vardonze regions, making garments from this fabric for his family members. Zandanicha fabrics are richly decorated silk fabrics of Central Asia, which were once widely spread in the West and were a famous textile production center. Historical records indicate that the fabrics produced in this village near Bukhara flourished and later began to spread throughout the country. Centers producing zandanicha fabric multiplied. Nevertheless, its original name has continued to be preserved in other places, says Shohruh Amonov.

It is known that this fabric was sent to India and Iraq, as it was highly valued by the noble classes of that time for its extreme softness, silkiness, and beauty. Even European queens loved to wear dresses made from Zandaniychi fabric. Special valuable fabrics were supplied for them. It is also a historical fact that the Arab caliphate's officials collected taxes not in money but in the famous Zandana fabric and carpets.

- Although the homeland of silk is China, Zandanicha silk fabrics spread not only to the West and East but also to China itself. Specifically, there are records that a piece of fabric called parcha was sent from Bukhara to the Chinese emperor in 718-719 AD. Pieces of Zandaniychi fabrics produced in the 6th to 8th centuries are still preserved in several museums in Western Europe. A unique piece of silk fabric preserved in the cathedral of the city of Ypres in Belgium was studied by the French researcher D. Shepard, who found a customs inscription and seal written in ink on it and managed to read it, says Shohruh Amonov.

For information: this inscription is in Sogdian script and serves as a reference regarding the length, size, and time of the fabric. The reading of this seal has clarified many ambiguities. D. Shepard has succeeded in identifying Zandaniychi fabrics preserved in several countries in Europe. It has also been found that similar fabrics exist among the finds at the Dun-Xuan site in Eastern Turkestan.

It is said that zandanicha fabric is decorated with patterns consisting of medallions arranged in horizontal rows. Between the medallions, plant motifs are depicted, and other types of decorations consist of rhombuses, squares, and geometrically represented flowers, etc. The French researcher D. Shepard emphasized the unique colors of this fabric, such as bright yellow, white, blue, red, and green.

According to the interlocutor, garments made from zandanicha fabrics have been widely depicted in the wall paintings of palaces and fortresses in Sogd, Tokharistan, and other regions of Central Asia during receptions and festive scenes.

- Such fabrics mostly belong to the 6th to 8th centuries AD. In particular, the wall paintings discovered in Afrasiab show the extreme diversity of the decorations of the garments of noble figures. Narshakhi describes a large weaving workshop located at the eastern gate of Bukhara fortress, known as "Bait at-Turaz." There, during the 10th-11th centuries, a unique type of fabric called "zandanacha," which was highly valued during the caliphate period, was produced, not silk but cotton fabrics. Similar fabric pieces have also been found in archaeological excavations in the North Caucasus, he says.

It is reported that in the 14th and 16th centuries, Zandaniychi fabric was in demand because it was made from cotton. Zandaniychi fabric became one of the cheapest, natural, and favorite imported fabrics for citizens in Western European cities, including the Baltic countries during the Middle Ages.

- The village of Zandani in the Peshku district is considered one of the districts of the Bukhara emirate. This village served as one of the two supply centers for the regular army of the Bukhara emirate since 1856. Today, the ancient appearance of Zandani village has changed beyond recognition. Once a famous textile production center, a modern sewing and weaving factory has been opened in Zandani village to continue the traditions of fabric production, currently providing employment for over a hundred residents. Additionally, the region's long historical and traditional craftsmanship opportunities have been effectively utilized to attract tourists.

For this purpose, practical work has begun to establish a workshop and museum for zandanicha fabric production in the village of Zandani in collaboration with the "Silk Museum" in Hangzhou, China, as well as to preserve and promote Bukhara's cultural heritage. Currently, Bukhara artisan master Ahmad Arabov, head of the "SD-Turkman Haly" company Solmaz Jumayeva, director of the "Bukhara Heritage" research center Robert Almeyev, and professor Mariachiara Gasparini from the University of Oregon's Department of Architecture History of China and Central Asia are working to establish international relations. Zandanicha fabric will continue to be a symbol of both our national culture and craftsmanship, says Shohruh Amonov.

For information: currently, the historical appearance of Zandani village has been restored with the help of artificial intelligence and is in harmony with historical sources.

Such efforts not only restore historical technologies but also strengthen international cultural ties, attract tourists, and create new jobs for the local population.

Source: Xabar.uz